Is Ecocert Certification Reliable? A Deep Dive into Sustainable Certifications

Sustainable certifications play a crucial role in distinguishing genuinely eco-friendly products from those that engage in greenwashing. Unfortunately, terms like “natural” and “eco-friendly” are often unregulated, leaving consumers navigating a complex landscape to identify truly sustainable options. This is why I was initially optimistic about the Ecocert Certification. As one of the most recognized sustainability certifications, Ecocert has the potential to lend credibility to products labeled as “organic,” including food items, beauty products, and textiles. However, it’s essential to explore whether Ecocert Certification is as reliable as it claims to be.

Is Ecocert Certification the Real Deal?

Let’s dive deeper to find out!

What is Ecocert certified?

Founded in 1991, Ecocert is an organic product standard based in France. Over the last three decades, it has significantly expanded its influence and is now responsible for about one-third of all organic product certifications across 80 countries. It’s important to clarify that Ecocert does not directly certify organic products; rather, it operates as an international network of other organic certifications, some of which are well-respected, such as Fair Trade.

Essentially, Ecocert acts as a certifying agency that upholds the organic standards established by other certification bodies. This means that not all products certified under Ecocert will display the Ecocert label. For example, while GOTS organic cotton may feature its own logo, the involvement of Ecocert as the certifying agency may not be immediately apparent.

What does Ecocert certified mean?

Ecocert evaluates five specific sectors: Agri-food, Cosmetics, Textiles, Forestry, and Homecare products. This broad scope means that a variety of products, from laundry detergents to organic foods and non-toxic perfumes, can earn an “Ecocert certification” if they meet the required organic standards. These requirements generally stipulate that products should be free from GMOs, pesticides, herbicides, and other synthetic chemicals.

While this sounds promising, the vast reach of Ecocert raises questions about its trustworthiness. Ecocert is one of the five certifiers for the COSMOS organic and natural beauty label. The COSMOS Organic and COSMOS Natural labels outline which ingredients to avoid in skincare products and assess factors such as packaging, storage, and labeling, alongside biodiversity and the use of renewable resources. To earn a “COSMOS Natural” label, a product must contain at least 50% natural plant-based ingredients, with a minimum of 5% being organic. Specifically, the formula must exclude the following ingredients:

GMOs
Silicones, PEG, and petrochemical derivatives
Synthetic dyes
Synthetic fragrances and antioxidants
Nanoparticles
Animal-derived ingredients not produced naturally
Ingredients associated with animal cruelty

In contrast, the COSMOS Organic label requires that a product contain at least 95% natural, plant-based ingredients, with 10%-20% being organic based on the product type. For instance, rinse-off products like Ecocert shampoos or body washes only need to be 10% organic, while other beauty items must meet a 20% threshold.

In the case of the COSMOS label, you might see a reference to the Ecocert organic standard since the certifying body usually comes before the COSMOS label. However, this is one of the rare instances where you might spot the Ecocert logo, as most brands tend to lack transparency.

The vagueness of Ecocert’s organic standards becomes evident when considering their methodology and process. Concerns about Ecocert’s credibility were first raised in November 2022 when the European Union decided to cease accepting organic certifications for Indian organic products from Ecocert, Control Union, and OneCert—the three leading companies certifying organic cotton produced in India.

A significant portion of “organic” cotton sourced from India may not be as eco-friendly as it appears. Crispin Argento, the founder and managing director of The Sourcery, estimated that between 50% and 80% of all “organic cotton” from India may not be authentic. If Ecocert is endorsing cotton that isn’t genuinely organic, how credible can they be?

This isn’t the first time Ecocert’s authenticity has come under scrutiny. In 2017, the Washington Post investigated the legitimacy of organic corn and soybeans imported into the U.S. and discovered pesticide residues on an Ecocert-verified product from China. Initially reported at a mere 1%, once Ecocert adjusted their testing criteria, the percentage of samples with pesticide residue rose to 8%. Observers found this alarming, and I share their concerns. The list of criticisms and instances of fraud associated with Ecocert continues to grow, with reports of fake certificates in British Columbia and the acceptance of the pesticide ethylene oxide in products deemed organic.

What products can be certified by Ecocert?

Ecocert evaluates a diverse range of products, including textiles, beauty items, food products, forestry, and homecare goods. While the concept of sustainable home decor, such as throw pillows and non-toxic rugs made with eco-friendly dyes, sounds appealing, it’s essential to scrutinize how companies achieve Ecocert certification in the first place.

Here’s a breakdown of how to obtain Ecocert certification:

To simplify, farms and businesses must pay Ecocert to certify them. The process involves five specific steps. Initially, they must request certification, at which point Ecocert drafts a contract. Next, an on-site audit occurs, where designated officers assess the findings to determine if the organization meets the certification criteria. If successful, the organization receives an Ecocert certificate. According to Ecocert, their certification process is “rigorous,” involving an independent and impartial body evaluating a product, service, or system against environmental and social standards. Once the process concludes positively, Ecocert issues a written certificate.

However, one must ponder: can a certification system remain impartial when it is funded by those it certifies?

On a brighter note, the rise of new sustainability certifications that prioritize credibility and transparency is promising. One notable certification is the Regenerative Organic Certified label, which focuses on sustainable farming practices that enhance land health and biodiversity. Examples of regenerative agriculture include planting perennial crops to prevent soil erosion and fostering biodiversity to manage pests naturally.

Ecocert Pros and Cons

PROS

Ecocert increases awareness of the need for organic products.
Some Ecocert-backed products may contain sustainable dyes and are often free from harmful GMOs and synthetic chemicals.
Ecocert’s global reach allows for widespread recognition (though this can be viewed as a downside).

CONS

Ecocert has faced scrutiny for being linked to instances of fake organic products.
The organization does not disclose its methodology or processes for validating organic products.
Consumers may face higher prices for Ecocert-backed products.
The payment model raises questions about the impartiality of the certification process.

What’s the Difference Between Ecocert and Other Certifications?

Ecocert Vs. USDA Organic

Similar to Ecocert, USDA Organic focuses on sustainable food within the U.S. However, Ecocert operates on a global scale. It’s worth noting that the USDA has previously penalized Ecocert and a Turkish exporter for fraudulent organic grain products, resulting in a $5,000 fine. If you’re questioning the reliability of USDA Organic, it generally offers more trustworthiness compared to Ecocert, although it’s not without its controversies.

Ecocert Vs. Vegan & Cruelty-Free

With the rise of vegan and cruelty-free fabrics such as cupro, organic cotton, and jute, Ecocert could potentially endorse these materials, as COSMOS-certified products claim to be cruelty-free. However, this criterion isn’t clearly defined by Ecocert, which is crucial since vegan and cruelty-free terms are not synonymous.

Ecocert Vs. Fair Trade

Fair Trade initiatives promote ethical business practices and transparent supply chains, empowering the global labor force. Ecocert features a “Fair For Life” label on certain COSMOS-certified products, indicating that they also consider social well-being and labor standards in their assessments.

So, Is Ecocert Legitimate? Final Thoughts!

Consumers are increasingly eager to make sustainable choices with their purchases, often willing to pay more for organic products. Sustainable certifications are essential for guiding these decisions and enabling participation in the slow fashion movement. However, while Ecocert Certification may have begun with good intentions, it often provides a misleading sense of security regarding the organic principles adhered to in product manufacturing. Given its vast size and operations, these concerns about credibility are significant.

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