How to Make Activated Charcoal Soap: A Step-by-Step Guide

Exploring the Benefits of Activated Charcoal Soap

Activated charcoal soap has surged in popularity recently, and it’s easy to understand why. This unique ingredient offers a myriad of benefits, particularly for those with breakout-prone skin. While the idea of incorporating charcoal into beauty products might seem like a fleeting trend—think charcoal ice cream—its application in skincare is truly noteworthy. If you’re intrigued by the versatility of activated charcoal, check out my recent post on the myriad of lovely uses for this remarkable ingredient.

Although I’ve been incorporating activated charcoal into face masks and toothpaste for quite some time, I had yet to experiment with making soap until now. The motivation to create my own charcoal soap stemmed from my discovery of an interesting ingredient at my favorite craft store: donkey milk soap base. It had been ages since I heard about the benefits of donkey milk, and finding it in a melt-and-pour soap base felt like a stroke of luck. To top it off, I had a 40% off coupon, making it an irresistible deal for five pounds of soap!

Intriguingly, historical accounts suggest that Cleopatra famously bathed in donkey milk. If it was good enough for her, surely it can be beneficial for us too! Of course, using donkey milk soap is entirely optional; you can opt for any white opaque melt-and-pour soap base, such as shea butter, cocoa butter, or goat’s milk. Just remember, clear glycerin soap won’t yield the desired results for this particular recipe.

Getting Started with Homemade Charcoal Soap

While I would love to learn the art of making soap from scratch, I must admit that I don’t have the bandwidth for another demanding hobby. The lengthy curing process of a month just isn’t practical for my lifestyle. If you share my sentiments regarding time and budget constraints, this method is the perfect solution for creating soap like a pro without the hassle of long waits and specialized equipment.

If you’re curious about traditional soap-making methods, I’ll share some helpful resources at the end of this post. However, once you see how easy and cost-effective melt-and-pour soap is, you might find yourself completely satisfied with this simpler approach. Melt-and-pour soap bases come in various formulations and offer endless customization options, from scents to colors. Plus, it’s incredibly user-friendly, requiring no special tools and guaranteeing great results—something that can’t always be said for traditional soap-making techniques.

Cold process soap recipes are relatively straightforward, but they involve multiple steps and a 30-day cure time. Hot process soap can reduce the wait time somewhat, yet it still demands more effort and equipment. Personally, I lean toward instant gratification when it comes to health and beauty products.

Having made soap this way for a while, I appreciate the ability to tailor it to my preferences. No artificial fragrances, colors, or mysterious chemicals here! This tutorial is a condensed version of my initial guide on crafting homemade soap.

Let’s Dive Into Making Charcoal Soap!

Essential Tips Before We Begin:

Melt-and-pour soap typically comes in large blocks, often around five pounds. While you can work with the entire block at once, especially as a beginner, I advise against it. Melting such a large quantity can be time-consuming, and maintaining a liquid state can be tricky. Working with smaller batches—no more than half a block at a time—will actually save you time and effort.

If you plan to make soap regularly, consider investing in an inexpensive slow cooker to melt the soap. You can often find one at thrift stores for a reasonable price. Just ensure it has both low and high settings for better control over the melting process.

For easy cleanup, line a rimmed cookie sheet with wax or parchment paper to hold the soap molds. This setup allows you to move the filled molds while the soap is still setting if necessary. Make sure all your tools are prepped and within easy reach; you’ll need hot pads or oven mitts to safely handle the hot liquid soap.

Supplies and Tools for Your Homemade Soap:

White soap base of your choice, like the donkey milk version mentioned, shea butter, or goat’s milk (the donkey milk soap lathers beautifully and is gentle enough for facial use)
Activated charcoal capsules or activated charcoal powder (the powder is generally easier to manage)
Silicone soap molds or a long, narrow loaf pan lined with wax paper
Tempered glass bowls (I recommend using Pyrex, easily found at thrift shops—one bowl will suffice if you’re making a single-color soap)
Spoon or silicone spatula
Essential oils of your choice (a list of skin-friendly oils can be found at the end of this post)
Optional add-ins like finely ground oatmeal, dried lemon rind, or all-natural colors
Bamboo skewer or spoon handle for creating marble patterns, if desired

Cutting the Soap into Chunks

Begin by cutting the soap base into approximately 1-inch chunks and place them in a microwave-safe tempered glass bowl. Avoid overfilling the bowl, as it’s easier to manage smaller amounts of soap. For bi-color marbled soap, melt all the soap chunks together first, then divide into two separate bowls once melted. Alternatively, you can use a slow cooker on low heat, but reserve it solely for soap-making.

Melting the Soap Base

You can melt the soap using a double boiler method by placing a glass bowl over a hot water bath while stirring frequently. Alternatively, microwave the soap in 30-second intervals, stirring well after each interval until completely melted. I personally prefer the microwave method for its speed and simplicity. Just ensure you stir often to avoid any lumps, as these can make pouring challenging. Be cautious not to overheat the soap, as it can scorch. If you’re using a slow cooker, keep the mixture on low and stir frequently.

As you melt the soap, it should eventually look smooth and free of lumps. Continue heating and stirring until fully liquefied.

Pouring the Soap Mixture

Whether using a loaf pan or soap molds, the basic steps remain the same. For entirely black bars, melt all the soap in one bowl, then mix in activated charcoal (25-30 capsules or 1 teaspoon) into the entire batch, ensuring thorough mixing. The amount of charcoal may vary; you can start with a teaspoon, stirring well, and then adjust in 1/4 teaspoon increments until you achieve your desired color. Keep in mind that achieving a deep black hue will require a considerable amount of charcoal powder, making the loose powder the more convenient choice.

If creating layered bars: Once the soap is fully melted, pour half into another bowl. Incorporate 15-20 charcoal capsules or 1/2 teaspoon (more if a darker tone is desired) into one batch. Gently reheat the charcoal mixture if necessary, ensuring it’s warm enough to mix smoothly. You can also choose to add optional ingredients in the lighter layer. Frequent reheating may be necessary to keep the mixture pourable. Essential oils should not be added at this stage.

Don’t forget to line the loaf pan with two strips of parchment or wax paper to create a sling. This makes it easier to lift the finished soap out of the pan. Secure the paper with masking tape to keep it in place.

After letting the bottom layer set for about 10 minutes, keep the other half warm and fluid. Pour the charcoal mixture over the set layer. Feel free to combine half charcoal and half white soap in any order you prefer. At this stage, you can add essential oils and use a bamboo skewer to create a marbled effect.

To release any trapped air bubbles, gently tap each mold. Allow the soap to cool for at least an hour (or two if using a loaf pan) until completely solid. Moving the soap to the refrigerator can expedite this process. The lined cookie sheet will come in handy for easy transport.

Once ready, carefully remove the soap from the molds and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. If you used a loaf pan, cut it into 3/4-inch slices. Each bar will be unique! You can enhance the soap by adding lemon essential oil and ground lemon peel to the white soap before pouring it over the black layer, creating a visually appealing marble pattern.

The soap can last for at least six months, depending on usage. It’s gentle enough for facial use and makes for a delightful gift, whether given alone or as part of a personalized gift basket filled with other homemade goodies like lip balm, sugar scrub, or relaxing bath salts.

This five-pound block of soap produced 18 bars in the molds I used, with each bar measuring 3 x 2 inches and at least 3/4 inch thick. By purchasing the soap block with a 40% off coupon, you can expect to spend around 70 cents per bar, compared to retail prices of approximately $5 each for activated charcoal soaps. Thus, making your own is not just rewarding, but also budget-friendly!

If you’ve been curious about soap-making but felt daunted by the process, this straightforward melt-and-pour method is the ideal starting point. You might find yourself loving this technique so much that you stick with it—just as I have! It strikes the perfect balance between control over ingredients and convenience.

For those still tempted by the idea of crafting soap entirely from scratch, here are a couple of invaluable resources to kickstart your journey:

I hope this post inspires you to try making your very own charcoal soap. You’ll be surprised by how simple it is and how much money you can save in the long run. Whether you choose to indulge yourself in the luxury of homemade soap or impress someone with a thoughtful gift, the choice is yours!

If you enjoy creating your own body care products, don’t forget to explore my other posts and sign up for my Free Resource Library for printable recipes. Join our TheWittyGrittyLife group on Facebook and follow me on Instagram for regular updates!

If you try this soap-making method or have any questions about the process, feel free to leave a comment below!