Understanding OEKO-TEX® Certification: A Guide to Sustainable Fashion

Understanding OEKO-TEX® Certification: Is It Worth the Hype?

Sustainability certifications are increasingly vital in today’s fashion landscape, especially as we grapple with the alarming statistic of 92 million tons of textile waste discarded each year. Among the various certifications gaining traction, OEKO-TEX® has emerged as a prominent topic among sustainable influencers and conscious consumers alike. But what exactly is OEKO-TEX® certification, and does it truly signify a commitment to sustainability?

What is OEKO-TEX® Certification?

OEKO-TEX® standards may seem complex at first glance, so let’s break it down. Established in 1992, the OEKO-TEX® organization—officially known as the “International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile and Leather Ecology”—aims to ensure that textiles are safe for human health. Rather than producing its own products, OEKO-TEX® serves as a verification system that certifies the products of other companies.

The OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is the flagship certification, renowned for its broad recognition. Today, OEKO-TEX® is comprised of 17 independent testing institutes for textiles and leather, spread across more than 60 countries. It offers five additional certification standards, including:

The MADE IN GREEN
The LEATHER STANDARD
STeP (Sustainable Textile & Leather Production)
ECO PASSPORT
RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS

What Fabrics & Materials Can Be Certified by OEKO-TEX®?

OEKO-TEX® certification applies to a wide variety of products. Let’s explore the different standards and the types of materials they cover.

The STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®

The STANDARD 100 label is the most widely recognized certification under the OEKO-TEX® umbrella. It is commonly found on items such as clothing, home textiles, bedding, and furniture. Products certified under this standard are categorized into four classes:

Class I: Baby products
Class II: Products in direct contact with skin
Class III: Products not in direct contact with skin
Class IV: Decorative materials

To achieve the STANDARD 100 certification, products undergo rigorous testing to ensure they are free from harmful substances, including azo dyes, formaldehyde, heavy metals, pesticides, and PVC. The more stringent the product class, the fewer chemicals are permitted. Moreover, OEKO-TEX® evaluates each stage of the product’s lifecycle, addressing potential contaminants from threads to buttons to zippers. The criteria catalog is updated annually to align with evolving regulations.

The LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®

The LEATHER STANDARD focuses specifically on leather goods, covering materials such as sheepskin, lambskin, and cowhide. Certification applies to all processing stages of leather, from semi-finished products to completed articles. If a product contains both leather and non-leather components, the non-leather parts are assessed against the STANDARD 100 criteria.

STeP by OEKO-TEX®

STeP, which stands for Sustainable Textile & Leather Production, emphasizes environmentally friendly production processes and socially responsible working conditions across the supply chain. Unlike other certifications, STeP evaluates the entire production process through six modules:

Chemical management
Environmental performance
Environmental management
Social responsibility
Quality management
Health protection and workplace safety

STeP also features a voluntary Impact Calculator that allows facilities to measure their carbon and water footprints, which is available free of charge. The program recognizes other credible third-party standards and certifications, enhancing its credibility.

The MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®

The MADE IN GREEN certification combines the rigorous criteria of the STANDARD 100 or LEATHER STANDARD with the principles of STeP. This certification ensures that products not only meet chemical safety standards but also adhere to ethical working conditions.

ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX®

ECO PASSPORT certifies the chemicals, colorants, and aids used in the textile and leather industries. This process includes a “CAS Number Screening,” which compares chemical components against a list of banned substances. On-site audits may also be conducted to verify compliance with environmental management and safety standards. Chemicals verified through ECO PASSPORT can be used in products certified under the STANDARD 100 and LEATHER STANDARD.

RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS by OEKO-TEX®

The RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS certification assists companies in fulfilling their supply chain due diligence obligations. This includes:

Business policy development
Risk analysis
Implementation of appropriate actions
Continuous monitoring
Transparent communication
Complaint mechanisms

Brands, retailers, and traders can apply for this certification to enhance their sustainability practices.

How to Verify an OEKO-TEX® Certification?

Understanding product labels can often be challenging. Thankfully, OEKO-TEX® offers a Label Check Tool that simplifies the verification process. To use this tool, simply enter the label number at madeingreen.com or scan the provided QR code. This will allow you to confirm the legitimacy of the OEKO-TEX® label. Be aware that the tool is case-sensitive, and it also maintains a list of withdrawn certificates, demonstrating their commitment to staying current and transparent.

In terms of reliability, the OEKO-TEX® Standards are considered among the most credible certifications in the sustainable fashion realm. Their independence as a verification system, comprised of 17 global institutes, minimizes potential conflicts of interest. Furthermore, the STANDARD 100 certification is renewed annually, requiring companies to resubmit their products for retesting each year. OEKO-TEX® also conducts internal audits every three years, ensuring that they uphold high standards of quality and integrity.

Advantages and Disadvantages of OEKO-TEX®

As with any certification, OEKO-TEX® comes with its strengths and limitations:

Advantages

Annual renewal of many OEKO-TEX® certifications keeps producers accountable and vigilant.
Regular internal audits by OEKO-TEX® enhance quality assurance.
The Buying Guide and Label Check Tool make it easy for consumers to identify certified products.
OEKO-TEX® is expanding its focus to include responsible business practices beyond chemical safety.

Disadvantages

OEKO-TEX® may certify an entire product or only specific processes or materials, which can lead to confusion and potential greenwashing.
The certification allows for the use of GMO cotton, synthetic fertilizers, and certain synthetic pesticides.
OEKO-TEX® needs to broaden its scope to encompass more ethical manufacturing practices and labor rights.

Comparing OEKO-TEX® and GOTS Certifications

To grasp the distinction between OEKO-TEX® and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), we should first understand what GOTS entails. GOTS imposes a clear percentage requirement for organic content in textile products and prohibits harmful substances like synthetic chemicals, flame retardants, and azo dyes. It also includes guidelines for fair working conditions, making it a comprehensive environmental certification.

While both certifications address chemical management and are internationally recognized, they differ in scope. OEKO-TEX® certification does not guarantee that a product is organic. For a product to be GOTS certified, it must be entirely free from synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, and GMO cotton—conditions that may not apply to OEKO-TEX®-certified items. For instance, semi-synthetic fibers like cupro or rayon can attain OEKO-TEX® certification but would not qualify as organic under GOTS standards.

In summary, GOTS represents a more holistic approach that encompasses environmental, social, and human health considerations, while OEKO-TEX® primarily focuses on chemical safety.

Brands that Feature the OEKO-TEX® Certification

Girlfriend Collective: Known for their size-inclusive activewear made from recycled materials like plastic bottles and fishing nets, they have been highlighted in guides on sustainable maternity clothing and swimwear.
Sézane: Offers high-quality, ethically produced clothing, including beloved sustainable sweaters.
Toad & Co.: Focuses on timeless styles that are perfect for building a minimalist wardrobe.
Encircled: A Canadian sustainable fashion brand that offers innovative ideas for creating a versatile fall capsule wardrobe.

A Final Word on the OEKO-TEX® Certification

In conclusion, OEKO-TEX® certification serves as a valuable tool for consumers aiming to make responsible purchasing decisions. While it is not without its flaws, it represents a significant step toward more sustainable practices in the textile industry. By supporting OEKO-TEX® certified products, you contribute to a more ethical shopping landscape. If you found this article insightful, please consider sharing it—because sharing is caring!